On the second day we had three hours of free time in the town of Kiruna before we had to leave for our next destination. Let me just say that three hours is way too long in that town. The main reason we had to wait is because there was another dog-sledding/snowmobiling tour in the morning that did not get back until noon, so to allow them free time the rest of us got a whole lot of extra free time. Sarah, Lara and I ended up playing UNO and eating our lunches in the tourist info center to pass the time. We went into a few shops beforehand. Sarah and I bought ourselves needles for sewing up our knitting projects. Speaking of knitting, I did not do the outrageous amount of knitting I thought I would. Basically all I did was start a headband. The problem with me is when I'm riding in a moving vehicle I can only read for a few minutes before I get a bad headache, and I found the same goes for knitting. Maybe a result of all the focusing?
Anyway, from Kiruna we made a stop to meet with a Sami father and son who still herd reindeer. For those of you who do not know, the Sami people are native to the northern regions of Norway, Sweden, and Finland, specifically Lapland. Since the 15th century they have been involved in herding reindeer and today Sami people still do this, though instead of skis they ride snowmobiles. More recently they have begun using GPS trackers to find out the location of reindeer and to monitor their activities. Reindeer are the most beautiful creatures in the world for the Sami. At one point their lives revolved around them. They used them for food, clothing, and for trading goods.
We met a father in his seventies and his son. The father was quite funny and full of old man wisdom--things like jokes should be told about reindeer but not about other people. The father took us into the pasture with the reindeer and we were able to hand-feed them lichens. There were only a few large reindeer. The rest were maybe only as tall as my hip. They were all quite friendly, some more aggressive than others. We learned that each reindeer has its own name based either on its coat or its antlers (and the Sami remember each one). For any of you who don't know, both male and female reindeer have antlers, but they lose them in different times of year. I was surprised with how different the reindeer coats were. There was one all white reindeer, and many with an off-white, brown color. There were also some more of a gray color and some deep brown colors.
We saw some reindeer along side the road as we were traveling to Lapland, as well. Instead of reindeer crossing signs along the road, the locals put black garbage bags on poles to signify there are reindeer around. Supposedly this is because the reindeer crossing signs get stolen too often (probably by tourists like us).
While one group was feeding reindeer, the other group of us sat on deer hides inside a Sami hut with the son. There was a fire going in the middle and we all sat in a circle around it. We each got to taste a piece of reindeer meat on a piece of traditional Sami bread. It was pretty tasty I guess. Nothing special. What was more interesting was what the son had to say. What I found most intriguing was how much the Sami people embrace technology. When we hear "natives" we think of people who are resistant to change, and who want to keep their old ways of doing things, but from my understanding what the Sami care about most is the reindeer and any way to do their jobs better they will jump at. Thus, they embrace all of the new technological advances that make it easier for them to take care of what is most precious to them.
We drove a couple hours to Abisko and had some time for dinner before the BBQ at night. We were all prepared for a frigid night.
Everyone was bundled up in layers upon layers. Therefore everyone was surprised when the walk to the BBQ was only about five minutes and it was inside a tent with a fire that was actually quite warm. I wore my gloves only for the last half hour or so. The BBQ was really nice though a bit chaotic with everyone trying to cook things. We cooked some delicious hot dogs and marshmallows and drank hot wine provided to us by our hosts. I was under the impression that there would be Sami people there to share stories with us and such, but it turned out to just be our group in the tent. I'm assuming you can rent it out. There is also the old tourist information building next to the tent. It's a museum now but it's only open a few weekends out of the year. Right outside of the tent there is a large canyon. It's very beautiful and we were able to admire it on a number of our walks in Abisko.
After the BBQ we decided to head back to the hostel to prepare to go out and search for the Northern Lights. We asked the receptionist about going out to see them. She was very helpful and looked up the forecast and weather for us, but it didn't look promising. It was cloudy outside and the activity level of the lights was low. The next night looked even less promising and so we decided to try that night since it seemed to be the best possible chance. What's worse is people saw them in Abisko the night before we got there. We met one man there who had been there for about two week and seen them for 11 nights in a row except for that one when we arrived. Tough luck.